Literature Review

Brief 5

Literature Review

by Chavisa Piankit (Pear)

Books, Article, Blogs, Video, Website

Research Method

Through out my manifesto, design is about playing. I wants to build up my final project that has some playfulness and useful for people. I have a chance to look through many source of book like paper, craft, colour and fashion, which help me to combine an ideas together.

A Smile in the Mind by Beryl McAlhone and David Stuart

The book “A Smile in the Mind” provide the different way to communicate with audiences. The graphic designer have to make an audience to understand the meaning. Good design has to make people not only just notice, but has to be remember it. Design should have story that make  the audience be the part of it. According to the sentence that mention on the book “…we would argue that an idea that happens in the mind, stays in the mind. Whatever happens when an ideas strikes, It leaves a stronger trace. People can remember that flash moment, the click, and recreate the pleasure just by thinking about it. It seems  that stronger than one that is immediate.” (McAlhone and Stuart, 1996:23) Designer is using wits ideas, which based on basic sympathy theory to make the audience realize and start hearing their message.

Key word:

“The best graphic design does more than capture attention and make the audience linger. It prolongs the encounter, compelling the reader not only notice, but to remember.” (cover)

“…so the first benefit of witty design is that the recipient becomes willing to hear the message. The audience become captive. The communication has the best possible start.” (p.18)

“Designer are also salesman. Even when they are designing technical literature they are influencing the commercial outcome, because the ease with which the reader extracts the required data affects the decision to specify the product. In that implicit transaction, something looked at with pleasure will be thought of with sympathy.” (p.21)

“If designer make you smile, They get you on their side, Because humour has the capacity to override the normal defences.” (p.21)

“…We would argue that an idea that happens in the mind, stays in the mind. Whatever happens when an ideas strikes, It leaves a stronger trace. People can remember that flash moment, the click, and recreate the pleasure just by thinking about it. It seems  that stronger than one that is immediate.” (p.23)

Type of wit:

• Pair – comparison, highlight significant, link between unrelated
• Ambiguity – this is form of two in one design where image can seen two ways
• Substitution – 2 in 2 technique, ones element within the image introduce rouge element
• Addition – 2 ideas in 1  of poster (l U.N. ch)
• Modification – one image can see 2 images it introduce the second ideas
• Expectation found – seen to be unseen / unseen to be seen
• Coincidence – an element within the job is not only unusual in itself, it also coincides in Someway with an idea or thought relevant to the message.
• Shift – Time (past-present), Scale (big can be small), view (backward, unexpected direction)
• Alphabet – unexpectedly seeing ‘this’ and ‘that’ delivers both recognise and surprise
• The face – play with human face
• Series of twists – play turn on an ideas, use a theme and provide the variation

This book give me many ideas of ‘how design is work on people?’

“Creativity and playfulness are intrinsic to these activities, which provide a natural environment for wit.”

The ideas from the book are very useful for develop my design. I can use different way to make people recognise my work and remember it. I think, it is true that design should make people not only to notice , but to remember. Design should have story that make  the audience be the part of it. This is fantastic book ever. I should read it over and over again.

Colour forecasting for fashion by Kate Scully and Debera Johnston Cobb

Colour is a direct message without time-consuming use of word or complex image. It attract people attention and give message that more quick and answer perception of a product. According to the International Colour Authority, “Colour comes before style and price, and is the first factor to which the consumer response.” (Scully and Cobb, 2012:18)


Colour: The Secret Influence by Kenneth and Cherie Fehrman

Colour influence thinking, change action and cause reaction. It is a direct feeling after seeing that colour. Each colour has a symbolic language and value. Active colours are used to upgrade aggressive quality of product, while passive colours are more associated with harmony and achievement. (Fehrman, 2004)


Playing with Color by Richard Mehl

The notion of play is familiar to people in all creative fields: it is fundamental to the process of making art. It’s fair to say that all original art and design is, on some level, the product of play. under the best conditions, artists and designers have the freedom to explore possibilities, to experience mystery, excitement, frustration, discovery, joy and reward — all emotions associated with play.

“Without play, there would be no Picasso.
Without play there is no experimentation.
Experimentation is the quest for answers” Paul Rand, 1998


Colour by Paul Zalanski and Mary Pat Fisher

Psychological research is explained individual responses from different colours. People usually most attract to the beautiful sheets of colour as a children. Most of elderly people prefer light over dark colour, but it is significant that yellow is the least colour of their favourite. Moreover, people who certain mental illness prefer a non-chromatic; white, grey, brown, black while normal people generally prefer chromatic hues. For the personality, an introvert like cool hues, while an extroverts like warm hues. (Zalanski and Fisher, 1989:40) Colours have a power of our sense of vision that express our feeling and the way people lives.


Saving the world by Fashion: Weaving Sustainability into Green Cloth and Textile by Tapoot of Virtue

The article based on static data from the big association around the world. It induce the way to save the word by starting with our behaviour of buying clothes. There has a new way of fashion call “Ethical fashion” , which mean the fashion that care about society, environment and the way to produce in fair way. (2011) Everything that people make has a direct and indirect effect to the nature. People destroy environment and it return to damage our health like a circle of life. The cloth factory production is one of the huge factor that produce many chemical to destroy the environment. Sustainable fashion is the new way to start saving the world. Second hand product , D.I.Y. and green material; cotton are the few option that designer choose to use in their design in the present and the future.

Key word:

“Ethical fashion, a new fashion style underscoring, ‘ethic’ accountability toward people, society and environment has then risen.”

“.. the ethical fashion provides consumers another option to save the world by themselves starting from the cloth we choose to wear. Take a closer look to find out its original story behind it and discover how much you know.”

“…we as the consumers using the cloth as one of the main requisite in everyday life, can also make a chance in our own cloth so as to create sustainable option for this planet.”

“Water Footprint Network disclosed that only one 250-gram-cotton shirt requires 160 grams of pesticide and 2,720 litters of water production.”

Make change by our own cloth

• buy second hand can prolong the life if cloth before they become worthless waste.
•focus on quality
•do D.I.Y. to make your own style and have fun with your old cloth

This article make us look back and see the past and the present. Everything we do has an affect to our future. We have to think more and care more about our environment because everything is circle. It’s just give an ideas of the fact that people should get back and try to


Colour Psychology: Do different colours affect your mood? by David Johnson

In western countries, they believe about the meanings of various colours has an affect to their life. Colours have the power to change people feeling and thinking. For instance, white is a symbolic of clean, purely and light, which often used with brides wear or doctor and nurse. Moreover, in the opposite, black is the colour of power, arrogant and can be meaning of evil.
This is show that colours have a power to our perspective and feeling. Faith and believe is a personal, but in the direct way people feel the colour from their eye and systematize by thinking to be like or dislike.


Dress and pop Culture by Patricia A. Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab

Paper clothes: (p.85-105) by Alezandra Palmer
Key Word:

“Paper fashions perfectly represent the ideology and philosophy of the post war generation who desired affordable, fashionable and futuristic design.”

“Fashion in Sixties created a revolution in style and marketing.”

“An investigation of the evolution of paper clothes in the Sixties, will demonstrate that paper dresses were representative fashion in harmony with contemporary design trend and life style…”

” The first paper dresses were manufactured by the Scott Paper Company in late March 1966 … anyone could purchase by mail-order, a fashionably styled and printed paper dress. Two model were made and labeled ‘Paper Caper. They were produced in four size , one style and two prints.One print was black and white op-art design, the other of red, yellow and lack with small paisleys. The A-line dresses were designed as sleeveless shifts with self-trimmed round necks and cut in two pattern pieces, with a hip patch pocket applied.”


Sharping Sustainable Fashion by Alison Gwilt and Timo Risanen
Key Word:

“Designer play a significant role in the development of new fashion products and they can lead the selection of materials and service used within the production process.” (p.17)

“… sustainability will be explained in terms of its current principles relating to the social, economic and environment consequences of our behaviour as consumers.” (p.19)

“Material are routinely for aesthetic and function reasons but a fashion designer can choose to work with recovered materials, which positively contributes to management of textile waste” (p.35)


The Story of Fashion with Karl Lagerfeld.

This movie introduce an ideas of fashion from the 50s to 80s. Designers are the person who make a trend and almost of their ideas come from society and environment. According to Karl Lagerfeld said “elegance is physical to do with attitude”. Wearing high fashion can’t make you look good, even it help a little but poor people can be look good as week if they have style. Fashion help people to express their personality and cover our skin and make it look more interesting.

Key word:

“…in fashion timing is everything. The greatest designer changing greatest sense. The sense is about the colour & the future idea…”

“…Clothe become much more than to be a 2nd skin…”

“…It was right moment for the right fashion and the right fashion to right moment..” Karl Lagerfeld

“elegance is physical to do with attitude” – Karl Lagafeld
a designer = design
a stylist = present a point of view



Cunningham, Patricia A. and Lab, Susan Vosa. (1991) Dress and pop Culture. Popular Press.

Fehrman, Kenneth and Fehrman, Cherie (2004) Colour: The Secret Influence. New Jersey: Pearson Education Inc.

Gwilt, Alison and Risanen, Timo (2011) Sharping Sustainable Fashion. Earthscan Ltd.

Johnson, D. (2007) Colour Psychology: Do different colours affect your mood?. At: (Accessed on 10.01.014)

Mehl, Richard (2013) Playing with Color. Massachusetts: Rockport Publishers

McAlhone, Beryl and Stuart, David. (1996) A Smile in the mind. London: Phaidon Press Ltd.

Scully, Kate and Cobb, Debera Johnston (2012) Colour forecasting for fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.

Tapoot of Virtue. (2011) Saving the world by Fashion: Weaving Sustainability into Green Cloth and Textile. [Power The Thought] From: (Accessed on 08.01.14)

The Story of Fashion with Karl Lagerfeld. (1996) Directed by Eila Hershon [DVD] Germany: Arthaus Musik.

Zalanski, Paul and Fisher, Mary Pat (1989) Colour. London: Herbert Press.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s